Things to do in Montpellier, France for art & architecture lovers

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I fly into Montpellier a few times a year but had never spent proper time there until recently. The historic centre is mostly pedestrianised with small streets winding around sunlit squares, 19th-century buildings with tall windows and iron balconies. There are shops selling soaps and books and baskets tucked into old stone buildings. But the city also has grand architectural landmarks: an Arc de Triomphe from the 1690s, and an 18th-century aqueduct with double rows of arches. It feels lived-in rather than set up for tourists, and the light is consistently beautiful.

Why visit Montpellier?

Montpellier is a hub for the south of France - it's easy to fly into and often cheaper than smaller regional airports. Most people pass through on their way to Provence, the Camargue, or the Occitanie countryside. But the city itself is worth more than a quick stopover.

Montpellier has been a university town since the Middle Ages, home to one of Europe's oldest medical schools, and that scholarly history is still visible in the architecture. The Écusson (the old town) has narrow medieval lanes that open onto grand 17th and 18th-century squares built during periods of wealth and expansion. It's not as well known as other southern French cities, but it's less crowded and more affordable because of it. A day or a weekend is enough to get a feel for the place, and it makes a good base if you're exploring the region.

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Where to stay in Montpellier

Here are my picks of hotels with a charming or authentic vibe. Good news about Montpellier - it is quite affordable. All cost around £100.

• Grand Hôtel du Midi Montpellier - Sleek and upscale in the Comedie square.

• Hotel du Palais - charming boutique hotel

• Best Western Hotel Le Guilhem - comfortable and charming terrace for breakfast

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The best things to do in Montpellier

Rue du Bras de Fer

Wander the historic streets

One of the nicest ways to start getting to know Montpellier is simply by walking. The historic centre, known as the Écusson, is full of narrow lanes, stone facades, and shady squares that open unexpectedly between buildings. Streets like Rue du Bras de Fer, Rue de l’Ancien Courrier, and Rue de la Vieille are full of charm, with independent shops and little cafés tucked into old buildings. The architecture is a blend of medieval and classical, and the faded shutters and warm-toned stone make everything feel sun-soaked.

Rue du Bras de Fer in particular stood out to me as one of the most beautiful streets in the city—narrow and winding, with a distinctive wrought-iron sign overhead the colourful steps and a perfect mix of cafés, secondhand bookshops, and flower stalls. It has a slightly tucked-away feel, but it’s easily one of the most photogenic corners of Montpellier.

Rue Vallat and Boulevard du Jeu de Paume are good routes to follow as you explore, and it’s worth taking your time without too much of a plan. I found the mornings particularly lovely, before the city gets busy.

Visit the Musée Fabre

Montpellier's main art museum is just off the Esplanade Charles-de-Gaulle and holds a strong collection from the Renaissance through to contemporary work, including pieces by Courbet, Delacroix, and more recent artists. The building itself is 19th century with later additions that bring in good natural light. I enjoyed the mix of eras - 19th-century French painting alongside contemporary pieces - and found it manageable in size without feeling overwhelming. You can see the main collection comfortably in about 90 minutes.

Promenade du Peyrou

This formal promenade at the western edge of the old city has wide views over the surrounding countryside. It's laid out around a central space with a statue of Louis XIV, framed by the Arc de Triomphe and the Château d'Eau water tower. The walk along the aqueduct is quiet and makes a good break from the busier streets.

Arc de Triomphe (Porte du Peyrou)

Built in the late 17th century to honour Louis XIV, Montpellier’s Arc de Triomphe marks the entrance to the Promenade du Peyrou. It replaced an old city gate and was modelled on Paris’s Porte Saint-Denis, with sculpted panels depicting moments from the king’s reign.

Place de la Canourgue

Place de la Canourgue is just a few minutes from Peyrou and has a completely different feel: leafy and quiet, with garden benches and a view of the cathedral spires behind the trees. There are a few good spots for lunch or a drink here, and it felt like one of the calmer places to stop. It’s also a nice point to pause on a walk through the old town.

Saint-Pierre Cathedral

Just behind the square is Montpellier’s cathedral, originally part of a 14th-century monastery and later transformed into a cathedral during the 16th century. The building is striking, with a massive vaulted porch supported by twin pillars, and a rather fortress-like exterior. Inside, the towering nave and vaulted ceilings create a dramatic vertical space, and the stained glass windows scatter soft, colourful light across the stone floor. Entry is free.

Explore MO.CO. and contemporary art spaces

MO.CO. (Montpellier Contemporain) is the city's main contemporary art centre with two sites in the old town: MO.CO. Hôtel des Collections and MO.CO. Panacée. Both are housed in historic buildings - Panacée is a former convent - which creates an interesting contrast between old architecture and contemporary exhibitions. Shows change regularly and often feature international artists. Worth checking the exhibition calendar if you're interested in contemporary art.

Jardin des Plantes

Montpellier's Jardin des Plantes is the oldest botanical garden in France, founded in the late 16th century for the medical faculty. It's now a public space with winding paths, shaded benches, and a varied collection of trees, herbs, and exotic plants.

It's free and never felt crowded when I visited. The layout hints at its scientific origins, but it's also just a good place to escape the heat. I liked the slightly overgrown, lived-in feel - locals clearly use it, and it's not overly manicured.

Shop local at Marché des Arceaux

Held twice a week under the arches of the aqueduct, Marché des Arceaux is one of Montpellier’s best food and flower markets. It has a very local feel, and the setting is striking—stalls stretch out along the arches, and the rhythm of the structure makes it especially photogenic. There are fresh vegetables, cheese and charcuterie, plants, and baked goods. It’s open Tuesday and Saturday mornings.

Trompe-l’œil murals

As you walk through Montpellier, keep an eye out for the trompe-l’œil murals scattered around the city. These large-scale painted façades often blend seamlessly into the architecture, tricking the eye into seeing windows, balconies, or figures that aren’t really there. One of the best-known examples is on Rue de l’Aiguillerie, where a multi-storey painting shows imagined residents leaning out of windows, reading, or hanging laundry. Another favourite is near Place Saint-Roch, where an entire side of a building is painted to mirror the street scene opposite.

Place de la Comédie

Montpellier’s central square is where everything seems to meet. It’s a busy, open space lined with cafés and dominated by the Opéra Comédie. While it’s not a quiet spot, it has that buzz of daily life that makes it a good place to sit with a coffee and watch the city move around you. The fountain in the centre and the Haussmann-style facades surrounding it give the square a theatrical feel.

University of Montpellier and Faculty of Medicine

Just next to the cathedral is the oldest medical school in the world still in operation. If you’re interested in history, it’s worth taking a guided tour to see the old anatomy theatre, library, and pharmacy collections. Tours don’t run every day, so it’s worth checking ahead, but it’s one of the more unusual and atmospheric places to visit.

La Tour de la Babote

A remnant of Montpellier’s medieval fortifications, this tower is tucked between more modern buildings but still gives a sense of the city’s past. You can’t always go inside, but it’s interesting to see and worth including on a self-guided walk around the historic centre.

Planning a trip to Montpellier

Montpellier is compact and easy to explore on foot. You can see most of the main things to do in Montpellier in a day or over a weekend trip. The city also makes a good base for exploring the wider region - Provence, the Camargue, and Occitanie are all within reach. Whether you visit Montpellier on its own or as part of a longer trip through southern France, it's worth more than just passing through.

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