London guide: a classic Christmas in London
What do we want from London this Christmas? Cosy, holiday spirit. Feeling warm and fuzzy inside. Classic London Christmas cheer. What do we want to avoid? Overcrowded, commercialised Christmas events that are beginning to oversaturate the city.
I have spent 7 Christmases in London and I can attest that it is one of the most magical places on earth at this time of year. Christmas spirit begins to fill the city from about the second week of November, but things are really in full swing by the last week of the month. Holiday spirit infuses everything in the city during this period (for better or for worse).
In my opinion, Christmas easily becomes gaudy and off-putting in the city. Enormous crowds converge on central London and new gimmicky events are dreamt up every year for extortionate prices. I’m more interested in the quieter moments, where they can be found, and the free and and accessible where possible. Simple, straightforward Christmas cheer.
So, that said, here’s some tips:
Skip Winter Wonderland. Don’t bother visiting any sort of Christmas Market unless you can find a handmade or community based one. Avoid central London Christmas lights on weekends and early evenings. Enjoy the views of the ice rinks, but don’t pay £35 to skate in a tiny circle for one hour shoulder to shoulder with the crowds. Christmas pop-ups? Outdoor cinemas? Gaudily decorated ski chalet themed pub gardens? Skip them all.
Here’s what to do instead.
Visit a Christmas house in London
Historic homes get dressed up for the holidays in period costume. These are my suggestions for the best Christmas houses to visit in London.
Dennis Severs House
Spitalfields | £15-30
The Dennis Severs House is truly a one-of-a-kind marvel. Dennis Severs bought the house in 1979 and decided to reconstruct the interiors to represent the daily life of a Huguenot family who would have lived there since the 1700s.
At Christmastime the house takes on even more life, opening for Silent Nights and candlelit tours. Visits to the house are in silence, and photography is forbidden, leading one to feel as if they are stepping back in time. This is probably the most unique and magical Christmas house experience of all.
Museum of the Home
Hackney | Free
The Museum of the Home is a wonderful exploration of the role our homes play in our lives. One of the best parts of the museum are the Rooms Through Time, which present historical accurate rooms from different eras. During the holidays these rooms are decorated as they might have been in each decade, from the 1500s to the 1970s. Visiting the rooms is a holiday tradition for many in London.
Ham House
Richmond | £12.50, free for National Trust members
Ham House decorates in Tudor style for Christmas, with the dining room decked out for a festive meal. The decorations are simple and natural, but brings lots of Christmas cheer.
For more stately homes and country houses dressed up for Christmas, see my guide to the best historic houses to visit at Christmastime in the UK.
Go on a central London holiday lights walk
The lights and decorations in central London are unmissable, albeit a minefield when it comes to crowds. If you’re craving as much Christmas cheer as possible, here is my suggested walking route through central London:
Inner Temple
Somerset House
Covent Garden
Seven Dials & Neal’s Yard
Regents Street & Carnaby
Bond Street and Annabel’s
Royal Arcade & Burlington Arcade
Burlington Arcade
Fortnum & Mason and Pickering Place in St. James
I have outlined this walking route in my guide to seeing holiday decorations in central London.
Try a Christmas menu or festive afternoon tea
One of my favourite things about Christmas in London is that all the restaurants and afternoon teas have a festive makeover. I dream of a festive afternoon tea at the Ritz or Savoy, but there are many options for all budgets. I’m not an expert—yet! But here are some good resources for finding the best.
CN Traveller - 7 of the best festive afternoon teas in London
Country & Townhouse - London’s best festive menus
Attend a carol concert
Visiting my first carol concert was one of the highlights of my first year in the UK. I studied at the Courtauld Institute, and our university carol concert was held at the tiny St. Mary le Strand church. Joining in singing carols with a huge group of strangers brought the unity and Christmas cheer that the season is all about.
There are many free and small carol concerts at local churches, so I suggest looking in to ones nearby. There are also much larger carol concerts or services around London, some ticketed and some free.
It’s even possible to visit St. Paul’s for free carol concerts, although those will require some queueing.
Timeout - Christmas Carol Concerts in London
Christmas in London - Carol concerts
Go on a wintry walk in London
Brisk winter walks in the bright sunshine are one of my favourite things, and London has a multitude of vast parks that make the perfect setting for feeling like you’re wandering a countryside winter wonderland.
Even better, stop at a cosy London pub to warm up afterwards. Here are my suggestions:
Richmond Park & the Plough, East Sheen
Hampstead Heath & The Holly Bush
Chiswick House, Chiswick Mall, & The Dove
Hyde Park & The Churchill Arms
Greenwich Park & The Prince of Greenwich
Barnes Riverside and village & The White Hart
Strand on the Green & The City Barge
Volunteer
While it should be something we think about year round, Christmas is always a reminder to serve those in need. There are plenty of volunteering opportunities in London during the holiday season.
Evening Standard - Volunteering Christmas 2022
Buy gifts at London’s wonderful independent shops
The over-commercialisation of Christmas is discouraging, but buying gifts for those you love is still a wonderful gesture and London has dozens of beautiful independent shops worth supporting this season. Here are some of my favourites:
Folka
Mason & Painter
Straw
Penreath & Hall
Couverture & the Garbstore
Labour & Wait
Muirshin Durkin
Daunt Books
Choosing Keeping
Townhouse (Spitalfields)
Liberty London
Petersham Nurseries (Richmond or Covent Garden)
For more info, see my more detailed guide to London’s beautiful shops.
