A day trip to Charleston Farmhouse in Lewes, Sussex
A Bloomsbury Group hub and home of Vanessa Bell, Charleston House is a must-visit for any art lover. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Charleston, plus arty tips for the charming town of Lewes.
The studio at Charleston House
Charleston Farmhouse: Home of the Bloomsbury Group
Charleston Farmhouse was the home of Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, part of the Bloomsbury group of modernist artists. They filled the house with art, but also turned the house itself into an artwork by painting nearly every surface. Charleston is one of the most inspirational places I have ever been to—it is brimming with artistic energy.
Charleston Farmhouse was a central meeting place for the Bloomsbury group, a circle of writers, artists, and intellectuals who pushed the boundaries of art, literature, and social norms. The group included Virginia Woolf, E.M. Forster, John Maynard Keynes, and Lytton Strachey, among others.
Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, who lived at Charleston Farmhouse, were at the heart of the group. They were close friends with Virginia Woolf (Bell’s sister) and other Bloomsbury members, and their creative output had a profound impact on the group's intellectual and artistic pursuits.
How to get to Charleston Farmhouse
Charleston is outside of Lewes and as a farmhouse, it is in the countryside. Still, it’s very possible to get here on a day trip, even without a car.
From London:
Catch a train from London Victoria/Clapham Junction. There are trains directly to Lewes, or trains that go quickly to Brighton and then a change to Lewes. Either way it will take around 1.5 hours to reach Lewes.
There’s a taxi rank directly outside of Lewes station with drivers ready to take you to Charleston. It’s a common destination, so the drivers will know exactly where they’re going. The taxi to Charleston cost about £20 one way from Lewes, and we took the driver’s card and called about 30 minutes before we ready to be picked up for a ride back to Lewes.
From Brighton:
Lewes is a really quick 17 minute train journey from Brighton - so it’s the perfect destination during a visit to the area.
By Car:
For those with a car and driving from anywhere in the South, the way to Charleston is along the A27 from Brighton to Eastbourne and then along a narrow country lane.
There is free parking at Charleston.
The Art Shuttle:
A temporary service called the Art Shuttle is running during the Turner Prize 2023 season connecting the Charleston sites, Seven Sisters and Tower Eastbourne. This could be a good way to make it around all these amazing sites!
What to see at Charleston Farmhouse
The Charleston site is small but mighty. The house is of course the main attraction and requires a timed ticket. No bags can be taken inside the house, and there are lockers at the entrance. There are knowledgable guides in every room waiting to answer any question about the house!
There is also an exhibition space featuring temporary exhibitions with work by major artists who often work in craft. I was able to see Betty and George Woodman’s work recently, which was such a delight!
Here’s an overview of what you’ll see at Charleston.
The Famous Women’s Dinner Service
Charleston is home to the Famous Women’s Dinner Service, a collection of dinner plates painted with portraits of influential women from history. This is one of my all-time favourite artworks. The service was created by Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant in the 1930s for the collector and patron of the arts Edward James. The plates depict women from all walks of life, from queens and warriors to scientists and activists, celebrating their achievements and contributions to society.
When visiting the house, there are very knowledgeable guides in each room who told us about Vanessa Bell’s experience in the house, including the influence of her domineering husband and the way she strove for equal creative opportunities. It brought home for me the ideas that her sister, Virginia Woolf, set out in ‘A Room of One’s Own’, and so despite the joyful interior of the house it also left me with a touch of melancholy considering the immense sacrifices required of women artists throughout history.
Downstairs: the kitchen, dining room and library
The interiors of Charleston Farmhouse are truly breathtaking. The house is filled with the stunning artworks and hand-painted furniture of Vanessa Bell and Duncan Grant, including murals, painted doors, and even bedspreads. Each room is a unique work of art, with its own color scheme and aesthetic, yet they all harmoniously blend together to create a cohesive whole.
The cute kitchen is the first room we entered when visiting the house, with a working Aga heating the room and beautiful ceramic tiles and cups made by Quentin Bell, Vanessa’s son.
The dining room and library are covered in painted decoration, and one of my favourite bits is the diver painted on the library door by Duncan Grant. The library contains a lovely collection of artwork by a range of 19th and 20th century artists, many which Clive Bell collected.
Upstairs: the bedrooms
The bedrooms may be my favourite part of Charleston. Clive Bell’s study is at the top of the house, with an amazing bookcase covered in painted decorations. There are several more bedrooms on this floor, including Duncan Grant’s. He and Vanessa painted each other’s doors, which are really charming to have a look at.
The entire upstairs is bursting with colour, artistic trinkets and wonderful furniture. My favourite room was the pink bedroom, with the beautiful pink lady painted on the closet door. There’s loads of wonderful artworks on the wall, and this time I noticed a sweet portrait of Berthe Morisot by Manet! I love the rugs as well.
Downstairs: the sitting room, Vanessa Bell’s bedroom, and the studio
After visiting the bedrooms, you’ll be led back downstairs to see the sitting room. The gorgeous fireplace is painted with two Baroque ladies and the room is packed with art objects. It looks out onto the garden, adding even more colour and life to the space.
The fish rug is one of my favourite things in the entire house—it’s so charming! It was made as an exact replica in the 80s.
After visiting this room, its time to see Vanessa Bell’s bedroom and then the studio. Bell’s bedroom is simple but charming, with a bathroom hidden behind a screen. The polka-dotted cupboard is something I’d love in my house.
Finally, its time for the showstopper: the studio! This room is light and airy, and easy to imagine being a hub of creativity for the Bloomsbury set. The fireplace is painted but also collects inspiring scraps, from a Picasso photo to a children’s drawing. Bottles of alcohol still litter the surfaces, and the cupboard holds a few more of the Women’s Dinner Service.
Every tiny detail is gorgeous and so fun to explore. The wooden chair painted with mushrooms on the seat was one of my favourite little moments. Before leaving the house for the beautiful garden, an elegant portrait of Vanessa Bell at work is hanging above a decoratively painted radio.
The garden
The garden at Charleston House is so charming! It’s the perfect example of a natural, overflowing summer garden bursting with colour. The summer flowers create lush flowerbeds and apples grow heavy on the boughs of the trees. Hollyhocks grow into the paths and butterflies flutter through the space. Magical!
There are lots of quirky garden features from Vanessa Bell’s time, from handmade pots to fragments of classical sculptures. Some of these are available for purchase as reproductions from the shop.
When I visited there were several incredible benches made by Betty Woodman for the space, which brightened it up even further.
The exhibition space
The exhibition space requires an extra ticket, but if you have a National Art Pass it makes the whole combination cheaper. It is a small gallery, but has two exhibition spaces which rotate with various contemporary artists.
Betty Woodman is one of my all-time favourite artists, so it was such a delight to be able to see her work at Charleston, which totally fits with her aesthetic.
There are often events surrounding Charleston’s exhibitions, and every year there is a festival with talks and workshops alongside the exhibition offering.
Other Bloomsbury sites in Sussex
There are two more Bloomsbury locations nearby if you want to go on a full-on pilgrimage.
Virginia Woolf’s Monk’s House (National Trust) was where Virginia lived. She was Vanessa’s sister, and her house is small and charming and well worth a visit as well.
Berwick Church, St Michael & Allangels is a village church with a painted pulpit by the Bloomsbury group and further painting in the historic church. Berwick is a charming village worth visiting either way and is just 4 miles from Charleston House.
See this site for more information about the Bloomsbury group in Sussex.
A day out in Lewes
Lewes is such a charming town and one of the best places in the South for antiques shopping. It is full of artsy galleries and shops and charming street corners. There’s loads of historic things to do here as well, so one can keep quite busy visiting Lewes — maybe make a weekend trip out of it?
Antiques shopping
There are so many antiques shops in Lewes, ranging from high-end and curated to affordable flea markets. If I had a house to decorate, I’d definitely make my way to Lewes and get a load of inexpensive but beautiful antiques. I love the Lewes Antiques Centre which is several floors of individual sellers. There’s a large variety here, from furniture to art to kitchen gadgets and clothing. Lewes Flea Market is also a good shout for basically anything you can imagine! There are lots of other fancy antiques shops on the High Street.
Independent shops
Alongside the antiques shops, there are lots of quirky independent brands to explore in Lewes. Closet and Botts is a darling homewares and clothing store which is so well-curated. Liv & Dom are a duo of two sisters making gorgeous handpainted pottery, and their studio/shop in Lewes is worth a stop on the weekends when it’s open.
Lewes Castle
Lewes Castle is a Norman fortress from the 11th century, perfect to explore for history enthusiasts and it offers a wonderful view over the area.
Anne of Cleves House
This historic home of Henry VII’s 4th wife offers an insight into the Tudor-era history and lifestyle.
Southover Grange Gardens
This beautiful public park features historic city walls and has beautiful flower beds. A perfect place for a rest or a picnic while visiting Lewes.
Charleston in Lewes
Charleston has recently opened an outpost in Lewes, and the cultural centre hosts temporary exhibitions and events and also has a lovely shop.
Final thoughts on visiting Charleston Farmhouse
Charleston is one of the most special places in the UK, and I never tire of exploring the eclectic site. It’s a feast for the eyes and incredibly inspiring, and I can understand why the Bloomsbury group felt so at home here.
I can’t recommend it enough as one of the best art trips to make in the UK, especially considering its close proximity to London. Lewes itself is a wonderful town, and I kind of have a bug for moving here one day!
I hope you enjoy visiting Charleston and let me know if you have any questions about getting there.
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